In this exclusive interview, Cyril Jacquot, author of Fr(h)ommages, reveals the story behind his book, published by Éditions Libel. A cross between a practical guide, a sensory treatise and an art book, Fr(h)ommages offers a comprehensive guide to pairing cheese with food and drink. Rich in documentary research, reflections on seasonality and terroir, and pairings that are as precise as they are unexpected, this book is a must-have reference for all amateurs, professionals and curious minds who want to understand and experience the complexity of taste.

Can you introduce yourself in a few words?

I have loved dairy products since my early childhood, and I was eating Munster-Géromé PDO cheese from the age of 8 months, a fond memory of my childhood. With a Master's degree in psychology focusing on sensory perception, I decided in 2017 to move from ailments to Meaux after a skills assessment and become a cheese maker. I obtained a CQP (Certificate of Professional Qualification) in cheese sales and advice in 2019 with special mention from the jury, and in 2020 I began writing this original book on pairing cheese with food and drink. Today, I practise my profession with passion, rigour and honesty at the Cheese Dairy Tête d'O in Lyon. At the same time, I continue to bring my book to life by adding additional content on social media (Instagram, Facebook, LinkedIn). In 2025, Fr(h)ommages received the Books and Knowledge Award in the ‘Educational Works - Restaurant Service’ category from the National Academy of Cuisine, and I hope that one day it will obtain the National Education Label so that it can be distributed to students, ensuring that cheese carts, which have become so rare in restaurants, continue to be presented to customers.

 

How did your experience as a sales consultant and workshop leader influence the writing of this book?

A sales consultant in a dairy department must be demanding and rigorous in order to answer customers' questions. They must also know how to listen while remaining attentive to non-verbal and paraverbal language (in a state of ‘floating and active attention’, as psychologist Carl Rogers would say) in order to pick up on what is not expressed in words and respond to the consumer's deeper expectations. The cheese consultant must also be able to advise their customer using language that is both technical and poetic and appetising. Finally, they must sometimes know how to surprise their customer by offering them new cheeses that they are likely to enjoy. I have been able to apply all these skills, developed in psychology, both in my work and in writing Fr(h)ommages, which is as much a technical compendium as it is a poetic book. Customers' expectations, questions and comments feed my reflections, which in turn maintain my professional rigour. There is a real dialectic between my book and my work. Since Fr(h)ommages is re-edited every year and supplemented with additional content, it is not fixed in time, but is enhanced and updated with the latest industry data. In short, it evolves in line with my knowledge, which is constantly being refined, and with changes in specifications, in a constant quest for perfection and ‘journalistic’ accuracy. Nevertheless, my personal journey has always led me to humility. My book remains a modest contribution because, on the one hand, knowledge of cheese is so vast and, on the other hand, I am only an ambassador to customers for cheeses produced and matured daily by others, all those artisans who work behind the scenes to offer us these wonderful dairy gems.

 

What do you mean by ‘cheese pairing grammar’ and how did you develop it?

Grammar and arithmetic are two subjects taught in primary school. They lay the foundatios approaches this highly subjective question of cheese tasting and cheese pairings from a technical, almost scientific angle. To do this, I carried out extensive documentary research and cross-referenced data to obtain a summary of impersonal, tangible and effective pairings. Each suggested pairing is supported by a pairing arithmetic that justifies the combination based on the nature of the pairing and the organoleptic sphere involved (texture, flavour, aromas, tastes and persistence in the mouth). This is the very foundation of the method I suggest.

 

What role do terroirs and seasonality play in your pairing recommendations?

The concept of terroir is central to my book because it fascinates me. When you realise that all it takes is a few changes in factors (flora, climate, atmosphere, geology, topography, soil, hydrological), activate a few levers (temperatur ns for academic knowledge and determine further learning. Fr(h)ommages, as an educational and hedonistic work, lays the groundwork for the art of cheese tasting and the art of cheese pairing. However, it cannot cover all the specific characteristics of French cheeses (3,423 cheeses listed by touslesfromages.fr on 01/10/25) or all consumer tastes, as we are all different and do not all share the same sensory experiences. This is why Fr(h)ommages is a book that suggests pairings with food and drink without claiming to be exhaustive, as one book would not be enough to cover all the specific characteristics. Nevertheless, Fr(h)ommage e, humidity, ventilation speed, atmospheric composition, pH, materials, atmospheric pressure) to favour certain microflora over others and thus significantly modify the final cheese and therefore its organoleptic properties, it means that indigenous microbial diversity alone explains the diversity of cheese. INRA researchers have recently taken an interest in this microbial diversity, and initial studies show that there are at least 50 to 100 active microbial strains in raw milk cheese and at least tens of thousands of indigenous cheese-making strains in nature. It's mind-boggling! That's why I decided to give them pride of place in my book, particularly when I talk about the Small Agricultural Regions to describe our 434 terroirs, unlike the books by my colleagues, which are content to focus on regions or even departments. At the same time, I have joined forces with the Observatory of Local Products (https://www.lopt.org/carte) to map the 146 cheeses described in my book and many other products from our French terroirs on a virtual map accessible to the general public. Consumers will be able to geolocate themselves and find the treasures of their local area. Nevertheless, I would like to emphasise that local pairings, although they may seem appealing, are generally organoleptic contradictions. We tend to believe that two products that share the same terroir are ipso facto compatible. This is a misconception! When pairing cheeses with food or drink, it is essential to start with the taste and not be swayed by marketing hype. Take the classic example of Ossau-Iraty PDO with black cherry jam. When tasted, the tart and sweet flavours of the black cherry jam overpower the aromas of the Ossau-Iraty PDO, crushing the subtlety of the cheese. This pairing was less unbalanced 100 years ago when parents served their children a slice of bread with black cherry jam at snack time to ‘wash down’ the harsh, powerful and waxy taste of mature sheep's milk tommes. Of course, this local pairing is supported by a heritage tradition, but organoleptically it is an aberration. On the other hand, I keep in mind that the notion of pleasure must remain the compass of any cheese tasting. That is why I propose this common local pairing in my book, even though I have reservations about the result.

Cheese seasonality is a delicate issue and difficult to cover without being reductive. Indeed, seasonality combines several factors: botanical seasonality, zoological seasonality, heritage seasonality, consumption seasonality and ripening seasonality. As cheesemongers, we are regularly asked about these issues. Let's keep in mind that ruminants fed on rich grass produce milk that is rich in mono- and polyunsaturated fatty acids, which result in cheeses that are more melt-in-the-mouth with longer-lasting flavours and finer aromas. However, a study conducted in 2002 by researcher Verdiez-Metz's team showed that only pressed and uncooked cheeses were affected by this seasonal characteristic. Global warming means that ruminants are fed hay in summer because the soil is so depleted and scorched. Summer milk is therefore more likely to be milk from the April-May or September regrowth and does not apply to all types of cheese. When it comes to zoological seasonality, there are still preconceptions in our profession that make us believe it is impossible to naturally obtain goat's milk from December to March and sheep's milk from July to December. Once again, common sense shows us otherwise. All you need to do is move part of the herd to a less sunny valley and put the goats with the billy goats or the sheep with the rams to obtain milk outside the traditional periods without resorting to hormones or phototechnical processes. Furthermore, the issue of seasonality cannot be reduced in a generalist book, and I advise readers to ask their dairyman, who will be better able to answer questions about the individual characteristics of each of the products on display, as he knows his supplier's practices.

 

What unexpected or original combinations will readers discover in Fr(h)ommages?

The quest for the perfect pairing is subjective and highly dependent on context. That is why in my book I talk about the five senses (sight, touch, smell, taste, hearing) + one sense (proprioception, or the positioning of the body in space and time). In other words, the time, place, circumstances, setting and people with whom we share the tasting have a powerful hedonistic influence. So my perfect pairings will not be yours, and even less so mine in other contexts. Nevertheless, here are some surprising and unusual cheese pairings that I can suggest to you and that have worked well during my cheese tasting sessions. Feta PDO, a soft Greek cheese made from sheep's milk without a rind, and sweet beetroot for a contrasting flavour pairing at the end of summer and beginning of autumn. The sweet and earthy beetroot neutralises the salty and tangy flavours of the Feta PDO, creating a harmonious combination on the palate. Consumers will also appreciate the contrast in texture (the cheese is melt-in-the-mouth and the vegetable is crunchy) and the chiaroscuro on their plate for a successful starter.

Bleu d'Auvergne PDO, a blue-veined cheese with large cavities made from Livradois cow's milk, and a Vermouth rosso made in the pure tradition of the Asti Piedmont region from fortified Barbaresco wines enhanced with more than 26 aromatic herbs and roots, including gentian and quinine. This aromatic pairing is explained by the similarity of the gentian aromas found in both the cheese and the Vermouth rosso. In addition, the sometimes pungent flavours of the Penicillium roquefortii in the Bleu will be softened by the freshness and aromatic depth of the natural sweet wine, creating a harmonious and lingering balance on the palate.

Maroilles PDO, a soft, washed-rind cheese made from Thiérache cow's milk, and grilled turbot caught between May and November. Grilled turbot has tender, melt-in-the-mouth flesh with a slight iodine flavour, delicate aromas and a touch of sweetness.

Contrary to popular belief, melted Maroilles PDO brings a buttery creaminess and slightly roasted, milky and herbaceous umami aromas. By pairing grilled turbot with a Maroilles PDO sauce, you will combine the delicate fish with the complex aromas of the cheese in a bold dish that will seduce your guests with its deliciousness. The two dishes will complement each other aromatically without one overpowering the other. You can also add a thin slice of Maroilles AOP to the fish at the end of cooking so that it melts slightly.

Rigotte de Condrieu PDO, a lactic cheese with a natural rind made from 100% farmhouse Pilat goat's milk since 2024, and Tahitian vanilla form a subtle and refined combination, playing on both aromatic complementarity and contrasting flavours. Tahitian vanilla, which is less sweet than Bourbon vanilla, adds an exotic and fragrant dimension to semi-dry goat's milk cheeses with a blue rind (Penicillium album). Tahitian vanilla, with its rich and complex floral aromas (jasmine, orange blossom) and almost caramelised woody notes, complements the goat's milk, undergrowth and nutty aromas of Rigotte de Condrieu PDO. Furthermore, the sweet flavours of Tahitian vanilla contrast with the salty flavours of goat's cheese for a subtle, refined and surprising result. To create this pairing, you can serve Rigotte de Condrieu PDO with a cream or compote flavoured with Tahitian vanilla. Cooks will prefer a tart or clafoutis with Tahitian vanilla sprinkled with finely shaved Rigotte de Condrieu PDO.

Beaufort PDO chalet d'alpage, a blind-pressed cooked cheese from Beaufortain, Maurienne-Tarentaise, and pineapple for a guaranteed pairing focused on aromatic resonance. Beaufort PDO, like Comté PDO, is a cheese with complex aromas and a buttery texture. Beaufort PDO Chalet d'alpage, aged for 15 months (in October 2025; produced in summer 2024) generally expresses fruity aromas (reminiscent of pineapple or citrus fruits) during this season, while it will express more woody and roasted aromas in February 2026 (19 months matured - produced in summer 2024). With its exotic aromas and buttery texture, Beaufort PDO Alpine Chalet matured for 15 months pairs beautifully with juicy, sweet and tangy pineapple. This is an obvious and welcome pairing for a successful cocktail party, where you can offer your guests skewers of diced Beaufort PDO Chalet d'Alpage with pieces of fresh pineapple.

If you want to recreate these pairings from my book, I invite readers to start with their own idiosyncratic tastes, formulate working hypotheses, and then try them out with friends, where everyone will give their opinions, going beyond simple ‘I like/I don't like’ judgements with reasoning. Each guest will find the experience enriching because, through cheese tasting, we are actually questioning ourselves through introspection.

What do you hope to convey to cheese lovers through this book?

This book is not only intended for gastronomy professionals (cheese makers, restaurateurs, restaurant staff) or students in training (CQP, CAP, ENIL), but also for all foodies and epicureans. As a consumer, you're inviting friends over tonight and you don't know what to serve them with the cheese, between the pear and the dessert, or as an antipasti, between the aperitif and the starter. Just pull out Fr(h)ommages and you'll find inspiration right away. My book is at once a ready-to-use educational guide, a fun reference work and a source of inspiration. But above all, it is a tribute to this inspiring dairy product and to the artisans who work every day to enhance our cheese platters and delight our meals. As Max Weber said, in a way, Fr(h)ommages contributes to the re-enchantment of the world in both the linguistic sense (to cheer up) and the sociological sense (to give meaning), a remedy for gloom, an invitation to share and escape. That's why it's available in both a free digital version and a paper version for all those who, like me, love to hold something as precious as a book.

Find the book in paper format: https://www.editions-libel.fr/maison-edition/boutique/frhommages/

Find the book in digital format: https://www.editions-fablyo.fr/produit/frhommages/